Kawasaki-Z-Classik.com

Yes , that's right john ... :clap:
i have searched in my archive , for differenz of KZ1000A1 - A2 engine .
here is a picture .

his engine is a KZ 1000 A1 ( see mark of oil 3700cc )



regards achim

Thanks guys for all the input,bummer hey..It was sold to me at an auction,low cost no pretence ,at being an early model,just a piston stuck in the barre,the rest ln in pieces.There were lots of parts missing but extras like another barrel,two sets of mikunis,28 and 30mm.
I asked Z1 enterprises for info on the numbers for ordering parts and they dated it as an early model engine and 1974 Z1 frame based on my info sent to them in 2009 but perhaps missed an "0" The engine number is on the 1975 registration document which makes sense for the date of first registration. I can't understand though why someone would tamper with the engine number in 1975 as no one then would expect it to become such a classic.
So engine number tampered with,not genuine,then probably not worth spending any more money on restoring it,sell off the parts perhaps?

Looking at your photos Achim the kick starter is also stamped on the casing as in later models and the lower front right hand side of the casing is like the 1974 models.
It has twin disc front brakes drum back and Italian mag wheels,(in 1975 photos supplied by the then owner.

Some nostalgic pics attached.. :( The 1970's pixcs were scanned and supplied by the first registered owner taken in 1975

Hi georgeclarke,
Welcome to our little corner of Z-1 madness.

Don't be too quick to discount what you have. If you want a correct Z-1 you have your work cut out for you, mostly in finding cases with correct #'s.

If a correct Z-1 is not your intent you have a very good starting point for anything from a correct-at-a-glance Z-1 all the way to a vintage street fighter sporting modern sportbike suspension. There's lots of frankenbikes that are indistinguishable from "correct" Z-1's without closer inspection. Either way, you'd have a historic piece that will turn heads, and be a reliable, fun vintage daily rider. Much help is available here regardless of which way you decide to go.

Welcome to The aZylum.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

I would agree. Looks like you have a fairly complete bike. Not sure what you paid for it but you could probably do what ever you want with it. Sounds like you have some extra parts to sell which would help with the cash flow. Kinda hard to find a bike in any condition for little $ now days.

Thanks guys for he encouragement,it cost very little to buy the bike and I hate to see a bike stripped for spares but even though its not what we thought it may I had been thinking I would like to see it running,maybe make a cafe racer out of it.I thought that before finding its been faked and thought about airbrushing z1 number 34 on the tank or sidepanels but now maybe just some good murals or art but I have a long way to go to get it in running condition.Need engine mounting bolts,cam chain running gear,pistons but the biggest problem is missing camshaft caps,may need another head..as you guys probably know the caps were machined as part of he head.I am first and foremost and always have been a biker and enthusiast all my life and always will be.
It would have been nice if it was an early Z1 motor but I knew the rest of it was not even close to original with the different frame number and double disc brakes etc so the non original parts don't bother me at all

Yes the caps are a problem. I see heads on e-bay all the time for sale without caps and then another sale for the caps. Would be best to get matched set but I have heard of people running differant caps with no problems. You would need to check clearances.

Hi
The only way is,for the four upper bearing covers for the camshafts:
to have a sufficiently large selection of bearing covers .
So that they can be adapted to a cylinder head.
I had to do this several times with Z1 cylinder heads.
With careful work and assembly this works very well.
I have built something for this purpose.
Here some photos

regards achim

PLASTIGAGE : Function example



Bearing tolerance : Z1 - Z1A - Z1B - KZ900A - KZ1000A1/A2-ST-MK II - J/R/B1/B2/UT



Test-Stand : Important: Tighten the cover with the correct torque = max . 8 N/m ( Screw thread : M 6 x 1 )
Testing without valves (valve springs) !



After the test: the control of the supporting surface


bearing covers : Constructional differences

Yes I agree you would need a selection of covers and use plastigage to check tolerances but what are you doing with the wheel attached to the crank end?. I see the wheel turning? My German is bad so I can't read :geek: You would have to get real lucky to get a set of covers that fit right on.

Hi
The wheel = flywheel mass , and rotates the camshafts.
Without valves and springs (no resistance)
So i can check the camshaft and cover´s with the cylinder head and see how the image of the surfaces of plain bearing-shell .
The sliding-tolleranz is well-known.
It is a great madness 0.02 - 0.16 mm.
It is no problem to find the correct covers for the cylinder head

regards achim